If It's Fall,
The Midwest is Watching Football and Drinking Beer
It's fall and it's the Midwest. That means we're watching,
no, not just watching --- we're living, breathing, and
hanging on to every down of football here. And with every
football game there's a beer, or two, or more enjoyed. The
two are as inseparable as Saturday and Sunday, or even
baseball and Ballantine, if you grew up on the East Coast.
So, when editor Tony Forder talked to me about a feature on
the Great Lakes for ASN's next edition, the topic was easy
to choose --- a tour of places to drink great beer and
watch football.
Come along for a quick tour. Even better, come
on down! We'd love to have you visit, and sample
our great beer.
Let's start in the place where I fell in love with
football, South Bend, the home of the Fighting Irish of
Notre Dame. The town has changed in more ways than I can
describe in the 30+ years since then. What hasn't changed
is the locals' love of football and beer.
When I was a freshman at N.D., Ara Parseighan was the
football coach, we won a national championship the year
before, and there was this curious little house right
outside the football stadium known as "Senior Bar."
Sadly all of those things are gone.
There is no Senior Bar now. But just a few feet away stands
a new structure, the Legends of Notre Dame, which is a
campus alehouse pub and restaurant. It boasts 24 tap lines
featuring a lineup of extraordinary ales. Now alumni can
quaff microbrew. Quite a change from the 5/$1 plastic cups
of macrobrew we swilled as starving students.
Not far from campus is the Mishawaka Brewing
Company. The Four Horsemen Irish Red Ale is the
top seller and a GABF medal winner. There are normally
seven house beers and a seasonal on tap.
One of my favorite trips as a student was to
Chicago. It's stayed a favorite over the
years. Whether Da Bears or the Northwestern
Wildcats are playing, it's always a great time in the Windy
City. There are plenty of good places to toss a
few down in between the once dry town of Evanston and the
brisk lakefront air in Soldier Field.
No trip to Chicago is complete without a visit to Goose
Island Beer Company. There are two locations, Clybourn and
Wrigleyville, which are both easily accessible using public
transportation. Good beer, good people, good atmosphere.
Need I say more?
Chicago has no shortage of good ale houses. The Map Room
has been wowing people with their incredible selection of
draft, cask, and bottled beers for years. With 26 beers on
tap, you will find something to tickle your
palette. The Clark Street Ale House downtown is
also a popular place. They have a good selection
of regional microbrews, many of which change seasonally.
A trip to Wisconsin requires you to do three things: attend
a football game, drink beer, and eat brats — preferably at
a tailgate. When I think of die-hard football fans, this
image comes to mind: bare-chested cheeseheads sitting in
Lambeau Field in Green Bay cheering on the Packers in minus
ten degree weather.
I can't help you get Packer tickets. They're some of the
most coveted things around, but you can find good beer in
town. Titletown Brewing at the old Dousman Street Depot
serves some fine brews --- with eight house beers normally
on tap. The building is a converted train station which is
included in the National Register of Historic Places. One
of their regulars is Canadero Gold, a tribute to Hall of
Famer Tony Canadero.
You might find tickets in Madison a little easier to come
by for a University of Wisconsin home game. Fair
warning though, this is coach Barry Alvarez's last season
and if the Badgers are looking good, expect to pay a
premium.
Madison is home to three brewpubs, all of which are located
close to the U-W campus and State Capitol area: Great Dame
Pub and Brewery, Angelic Brewing Co., and, J.T. Whitney's
Pub and Brewery. They're all comfortable places to quaff,
and eat, or cry in your beer if your team loses.
And don't leave Wisconsin without having some of the fine
beers from New Glarus Brewing. The Belgian Red Ale is sheer
pleasure in a glass, especially if you love kriek. One sip
takes me straight back to A La Becasse in Brussels. I can't
buy it locally, so I always take some home.
Our next stop is Minneapolis. I thought of
saying it was just too cold to go there. Only
joking! The unwavering friendliness and
hospitality of Minnesotans keeps me coming back. It's
amazing what a good brew can do for your mood too.
I always head straight for the Minneapolis Town Hall
Brewery where the seasonals are always worth the trip. They
won three well deserved silver medals at the 2004 GABF.
If you're looking for a good beer bar in Minneapolis, stop
in at Williams Uptown Pub and Peanut Bar. It's a
real bar: two floors with no windows, darts, free peanuts
and popcorn and, best of all, 70 beers on draft, and 300
bottled beers on the menu.
Heading north out of the Twin Cities, Barley John's Brew
Pub in New Brighton is attracting lots of attention these
days. The house beers are a solid lineup and the
guest taps include a collection from Paulaner in
Germany. Try their Wild Brunette, made with
Minnesota wild rice.
On to Ohio for a visit to Cincinnati. No, I'm not snubbing
Buckeye fans. It's just that the Bearcats have been such
spoilers in recent years that they can't be ignored. And
Bengal fans are quick to point out that this might be their
year. Besides, it's Oktoberfest. And when it's Oktoberfest,
you follow the beer, especially to a city with a large
German population.
Downtown Cincinnati becomes a block party as 500,000 people
gather to hear music, eat and drink. Did I mention the
world's largest chicken dance? Make sure you hop the bus,
cross the river, and visit the Hofbräuhaus. It's the real
deal straight from Munich -- everything from the beer to
the maypole in the beer garden.
Time to come home — for me, that's Ann Arbor and Michigan
Stadium or, as Keith Jackson has been known to call it, the
Big House. It's easy to find on Saturday if you're from out
of town. Just follow the traffic. With 107,501 people
converging on a single location, it's hard to get anywhere
else.
For years my pre-game ritual has included a stop at
Fraser's Pub. It the kind of place where the waitstaff has
your favorite brew waiting at your favorite table when you
sit down. Fans from opposing teams frequently
stop by, and they fit right in.
Post-game, there are plenty of places to celebrate. Leopold
Brothers Brewery, an eco-friendly lager house, recently
added a distillery to its operation. The tap room is
reminiscent of a German beer hall with a small outside beer
garden.
A few blocks further north you'll find two brewpubs:
Grizzly Peak, that has recently announced it is expanding
next door into the old Del Rio, a landmark for alumni; and,
Arbor Brewing, which has recently also begun making a
wonderful collection of Belgian beers.
So come to the Midwest for the football, and for the beer.
Neither will disappoint.